Designer: louise Amstrup Louise Amstrup kick started 'off-schedule' at London Fashion Week (LFW) and set the standard as to what constitutes a winning S/S '09 collection.
Inspired by the 1984 cult classic film 'Paris, Texas' directed by Wim Wenders, the collection basked in feminine separates and dresses that reflected the beauty characterised by the film's actress, Jane Henderson.
Summer clothing — usually defined by its prints and colours — next year, looks like it will take on an all together different colour palette, which Louise has communicated in her collection.
With the only flash of high colour (pink) coming from a one shoulder dress, the collection retained its femininity through elegant draping, intricate ruffles and the quality of the fabrics used.
Fusing geometric angled stripes (at longitude and latitude) in varying degrees of stripe width, sparse rose floral patterns (on a backdrop of grey and white stripes), showed-off a S/S '09 trend of muted colours that perfectly reflected the need for considerate dressing in economic hard times — without the gloom.
Alexander McQueen, Sofia Kokosalaki and Jonathan Saunders (whom she has worked for as a trainee in the past) would have been proud of her second collection at LFW.
Prominent Colours: Black, Electric Blue, Grey Silver, Nude, Pink, White
Designer: Modernist Modernist's beautiful S/S '09 collection, flounced and flirted its way down the runway, showing off intricate cornicing on bodices, necklines and skirt hems, to infer the discipline isn't confined to the realms of antique interior decorations.
Perfectly formed tulip skirts were teamed with soft blouses, that keenly protected silhouettes and the design aspect of each garment, to the extent where each style's individual beauty wasn't distracted.
Pretty flick hem skirts worn either with lace tops (tantalizingly revealing bare flesh) or with bras (prominently displayed under transparent Juliet sleeved blouses), yielded an ultra feminine look.
Highly sophisticated yet utterly modern, Modernist produced one of the stand-out collections at London Fashion Week.
Designer: Qasimi Qasimi turned on the theatrics, with a show aimed at dressing (for work, leisure and evening), the new nobility and the aspiring gentry.
Breeches, riding boots and belted jackets (in pink and white block colours) showed-off a youthful exuberance that was a stark contrast to the staid moss green tweeds of old.
For work, pencil skirts and pussy bow blouses, were shown alongside trouser suits and shorts with cropped jackets — which revealed how the designers envisaged the titled country folk of today to dress. In fact, this new cultured upper class don't mind wearing eveningwear dresses inspired by sari's or wearing ball gowns reminiscent of the type worn by the ill-fated French Queen, Marie Antoinette. They revel in their wealth and its ability to support their class defining clothing requirements.
Starting with violinists (to set the tone of the show) and finishing with her model majesty Erin O'Connor (who left a lasting impression), Qasimi have radically changed the perceptions of how English aristocracy should dress.
Prominent Colours: Beige, Grey/Silver, Pink, White
Designer: steve J & yoni p As though to capture the graceful charms of butterflies, Steve J and Yoni P employed three ballerinas to show off their delicate beauty.
With head dresses resembling antennae's and bodices featuring (metallic) petals of blooming flowers or flapping wings, the characteristics of the butterfly could be seen throughout the collection.
The transparent attributes of insect wings were included too, cleverly used as contrasting silver panels on pencil skirts (to give the illusion of bare flesh) and used entirely for belted trousers (in a variety of lengths); that also featured buttoned down pockets.
Pretty dresses in monochrome, sun-kissed yellow, pink, electric blue, vibrant orange, salmon, puritan white and metallic silver & gold; seemed to reconstruct the journey of the butterfly from cocoon to adulthood.
Vidler & Nixon Brand: Vidler & Nixon Products: Vidler & Nixon's S/S '09 collection film presentation entitled "Love's Pursuit" (an overture based on a sixteenth century poem by Thomas Lodge), certainly managed to capture the beauty of the designers Changeant silk chiffon dress.
In the film — that features young British actress Cara Horgan — the dove grey dress's feminine form (one of the standout items in the collection) — is superbly shown off.
The collection centres on beautifully crafted pieces in luxurious Holland & Sherry fabrics in: silk, cashmere and lambswool.
Vidler & Nixon's established trademark of progressive structure and unorthodox tailoring, continues in key pieces such as their 20's tux jacket; that benefits from beautiful lining.
Prominent Colours: Black, Dove Grey/Silver, Vintage Pink
