There was something celebratory about LFW S/S '08. Not only did the shows provide a platform for some serious new talent but, a welcome return for an array of British designers to their 'label' of birth.

Matthew Williamson, Luella and Afshin Feiz, all decided to return to London to show their latest collections.

For Matthew Williamson, the show coincided with the celebration of his 10th year in the fashion industry and, as though to confirm the significance of his return (and marking this fashion achievement), it seemed fitting to have someone (almost) royal attend.

What will go down in history as one of fashion's greatest moments, Williamson managed to draft-in his purple majesty Prince, to perform to the delight of a captivated audience.

Luella's return, and steady rise in the fashion world, coincided with the opening of her new shop on Brook Street, W1 a postcode that is finally becoming home to more and more British designers, testament to the popularity and commercial success of their collections.

With a work experience history that spans the fashion houses of Thierry Mugler, John Galliano and Christian Lacroix Haute Couture, Afshin Feiz's time abroad (in both Paris and New York), came to an end. The British designer returned home to show his first S/S '08 collection at On|Off.

Below is a round-up of the shows.

Designer: Afshin Feiz S/S '08

Designer: Afshin Feiz
Afshin Feiz S/S '08 show, entitled Dawn, beautifully explained the Aztec myth of the source between light and dark, good and evil.

Legend has it, that the goddess Coatlicue, whose name means "Serpent Skirt", was the Earth goddess of life and death who became pregnant with Huitzilopochtli the God of the Sun, after a ball of feathers fell into the temple she was sweeping. This strange pregnancy greatly offended her existing 400 children who were encouraged by their sister Coyolxauhqui to kill their dishonoured mother. What ensued from the birth of the fully grown Huitzilopochtil (the Sun God — who subsequently cut off his sister's head and threw it into the sky to form the moon) was a war between day and night. Looking at the colour palette that transcends the entire collection, you can actually see the battle, without the bloodiness that often accompanies wars.

Cleverly relayed into Feiz's collection, through the way in which elegant dresses are bathed in the rays of the sun that forces the night to the hem through a subtle graduation, the legend forms a backdrop to effortless feminine clothing for day and evening. For day, Feiz's pretty short summer dresses in white and yellow, bask in the sunny glory of chic design whilst eveningwear takes on a darker palette embellished with star-like studs and sequins. Almost to inject some respite in the conflict, lilac and beige short dresses (in silk) were added to provide a spot of differential colour.

Certainly, Afshin Feiz's S/S '08 collection has assured that a new fashion Dawn has arrived.

Prominent Colours: Black, Grey, Lilac, Yellow, Beige, White

Fabrics/Patterns: Silk, Cotton, Jacquard, Organza Chiffon

Buyer Contact: Daniela Miraglia
: +44 (0)20 7636 6063 | Fax: +44 (0)20 7323 0010 | E-mail: Daniela Miraglia

Showroom: 30 Rue Réaumur Paris 75003 | Tel: +33(0)1 42 76 93 45

Visit: Afshin Feiz

Designer: Afshin Feiz S/S '08
Designer: Afshin Feiz S/S '08
Designer: Afshin Feiz S/S '08
Designer: Ben de Lisi S/S '08

Designer: Ben de Lisi
Receiving the sparkling invitation to Ben de Lisi's S/S '08 show, provided an indication as to the level of high-octane glamour to come.

The show stopping silver disc organdie evening dress — with plunging neckline — performed its esteemed duty as the key piece of the show. Around it, Ben designed an array of day and summer dresses, aimed at the type of women who frequents the poolside dwellings of elite addresses (as well as her own) and the yachts of the jetset.

Adept at producing dresses to suit all types of bodies, dress shapes took on the persona of easy wear t-shirts, pinafore, kaftan, toga and slip styles, in shades from brilliant white to aquamarine with a unique pattern bandeau dress thrown in for good measure.

As though to turn-up the glamorous St Tropez heat (to show just how fabrics that are suited to eveningwear could be worked into day-wear), the designer incorporated separates that included, metallic gold belted shorts (teamed with beige chiffon blouse), crisp white shorts worn with the silver disc organdie t-shirt and a relaxed black 3/4 trouser and white with black panel jersey top combo, for monochrome look that was simple chic.

Altogether, gorgeous.

Prominent Colours:
Lapis, Rose Quartz, Smoky Topaz, Citrine, Jet, Canary, White, Aquamarine

Fabrics/Patterns: Double Satin, Mosaic Sequin, Silver Disc Organdie, Printed Chiffon, Large Op Art Sequin Tulle, Matte Jersey, Pleated Fans

Buyer Contact: Debbie Lovejoy | Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 2994 | Fax: 020 7730 2881

Boutique: 40 Elizabeth Street London SW1W 9NZ | E-mail: Debbie Lovejoy

Ben De Lisi

Designer: Ben de Lisi S/S '08
Designer: Ben de Lisi S/S '08
Designer: Ben de Lisi S/S '08
Designer: Betty Jackson S/S '08

Designer: Betty Jackson
Betty Jackson's unmistakable shapes and silhouettes, headed down the catwalk to a progressive beat, that made a round trip through summer block colours (in her separates and dresses), to a plethora of statement patterns that gradationally turned to black.

Famed for her functional clothing, the no-nonsense quality of her S/S '08 collection, made contingencies for all kinds of weather and occasions.

Tan leather tunic dresses, jackets, skirts, tops and trenches, looked less severe than the black versions commonly seen on the high street in winter '07. In fact, the tan leather trench coordinated nicely with the apricot shift dress worn underneath, and the rose detailed bandeau top, complimented the pencil thinness of the knee-length leather skirt to yield a fresh look made for work.

For those still shy of experimenting with colour, the black leather trench coat — cinched at the waist with a contrasting brown thin belt; and worn with a white A-line skirt — gave a monochrome alternative that was chic yet, practical if it rained.

As though to give a nod in reference to the safari themes that are often seen in the fashion collections of summer, Jackson selected unusual colour patterns in yellow and black, and turquoise and black, that expertly added her signature 'edginess'.

Prominent Colours: Black, Red, Navy, White, Sky Blue, Yellow, Grey, Pale Pink, Apricot and Peach

Fabrics/Patterns: Metallic, Leather, Cotton, Chiffon

Buyer Contact: Angelina Davey
Tel: +44 (0)20 7602 6023 | Fax: +44 (0)20 7602 3050

E-mail: Angelina Davey

Boutique: 311 Brompton Road London SW3 | Tel: 020 7589 7884

Visit: Betty Jackson

Designer: Betty Jackson S/S '08
Designer: Betty Jackson S/S '08
Designer: Betty Jackson S/S '08

Archive Label for Links

Catwalk Shows

Fashion Show Reviews
> London Fashion Week — A/W '09 - I

> London Fashion Week — A/W '09 - II
> Rio — 5-8 November '09
> London Fashion Week — s/S '09 - I
London Fashion Week — S/S '09 - II
London Fashion Week — s/s '09 - III
> London Fashion Week — a/w '08 - I
> London Fashion Week — a/w '08 - II
> London Fashion Week — a/w '08 - III
> London Fashion Week — s/s '08 - I
> London Fashion Week — s/s '08 - ii
> London Fashion Week — a/w '07
> london fashion week — s/s '07
> London Fashion Week — a/w '06
> London fashion week — s/s '06
> London fashion week — a/w '05
> London Fashion Week — s/s '05
> London Fashion Week — a/w '04
> London Fashion Week — s/s '04

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