How's this for a conspiracy theory. What did the international fashion designers do, when they found out there would be a recession looming?
ANSWER:
Offer us every conceivable fashion trend they could find, so as to ensure (regardless of how cash strapped we are), there would be something we couldn't resist buying. Cruel isn't it? But then, they are in the business of selling clothes and as these collections are so darn good, the temptation to buy is just too great.
COATS
Forget global warming, temperatures are still erratic enough to warrant buying a winter coat, so there is an excellent excuse to invest in one this winter.
WHAT'S ON OFFER
The first noticeable difference, is the material used. Fur [Gucci], leather, lace and shaggy wool [Dolce & Gabbana] — shaggy wool being the most prominent textile to be incorporated in collections. Used either to contrast against shiny fabrics (like: silk or satin — worn underneath), or worn as a statement, the humble coat does much more than protect us from the weather this season. It makes an impact.
In years gone by, outwear usually came in a palette of practical, easy-to-care colours like: black, camel and navy. It still does, but is radically vamped through surface textures, shapes, lengths and importantly colour, in an attempt to satisfy our lust for an individual look. Like dresses, coats can now come in variety of lengths (e.g.: maxi, 3/4 or thigh length) and, it should be noted, these variants in length are not exclusive to the hem, sleeve lengths vary also. Like dresses again, coats are available with or without collars, with or without sleeves, can be funnel necked, possess structured shoulders (reminiscent of the 80's), unstructured shoulders (for a more casual laid-back look); come in block colours — e.g.: black, purple, navy, off-white — or in pattern colours. Rarely offered in a simple traditional shape or style; belts, buttons and pockets are all used to enhance the look.
Put simply, coats have become the new beefed up version of the dress.
DRESSES, AND TROUSERS, AND KNITWEAR OH MY!
Queen Victoria and Morticia Adams [Derek Lam] do tea and decry the carefree exuberance of the gypsy/folklore babes [Gucci] who are, in themselves, teased mercilessly by the rock chick/punks [Givenchy] who are slapped down by the power dressing women of the 80's [YSL]. All empowered women, from different era's, who have been referenced by fashion designers this season, some of whom, have even added looks from the 1940's women's wardrobe too [Diane Von Furstenberg].
WHAT'S ON OFFER
And here's how it works. Fur coats [Gucci], shaggy-wool coats/gilets [Dolce & Gabbana] and chunky knitwear cardigans [Celine], are teamed with slim-fit trousers in leather [Givenchy], PVC or wet-look materials, for an effortless rock chic look. If tight leather and drain-pipe trousers are too figure hugging, folklore pattern dresses (worn with black woolly tights) are the alternative. T-shirt style dresses in knitwear, offer a casual yet, easy-to-wear alternative.
The embellishments of last year (used in party/eveningwear), have been diluted into sequins and are transferred from dresses and tops, onto both peg-top and slim leg trousers instead. To compliment the bottoms, tops using lace [Prada], organza, satin and sumptuous silks, either feature beautifully crafted pleats, pretty pussybows or cute ruffle blouses that all, in some way, interpret the themes. With the inclusion of brocades and velvets, the same fabrics are used to produce some of the most vibrantly coloured evening dresses, that steer clear of the favourite winter perennial colour, black, and instead use the colours of summer [Versace]. Zebra and leopard prints, continue the safari trend of summer.
The Scottish highlands, and the inhabitants preference towards wearing tartan, is another featured trend. Patterns are enlarged to show off colour combos that not only use the usual red and black pairing but, electric blue, brown or green variations on coats, dresses, shirts and trousers [Dolce & Gabbana and Jaeger].
Like coats, silhouettes and curves come in many shapes and sizes, with rounded shoulders to be found on dresses [YSL], sculptured shoulders on jackets [Aminaka Wilmont], peplums on skirts [Burberry], tiered/ruffles on skirts and the continuation of dirndl styles first seen in summer collections.
ACCESSORIES
Thomas Cromwell (as painted by Holbein) style cocktail rings, multi strand pearls and gold chains [Givenchy] plus plenty of cuffs; are used to embellish the looks. How you wear them, weighs heavily on extravagance but fortunately, without the snobbery usually associated with whether the metals and gems used, are precious or not.
For good measure, shoes still possess some of the most innovative heels and in some instances fins [Prada] so much so, that the sheer plethora of styles have justified the welcome return of the classic pointy toe stiletto, in old faithful — black.
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